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“This is not Elizabeth Taylor, anyway,” Karl Lagerfeld declared. Encamped in a apartment at the Mercer Hotel — which the Chanel associates took over in abounding in alertness for the house’s Métiers d’Art appearance on Tuesday night — Lagerfeld bound dispelled any assumption of a luxe cheese fest of apish architecture and tricked-out headdresses aggressive by La Liz’s (albeit delightful) about-face as Cleopatra.
Lagerfeld fabricated the abnegation afore presenting his accumulating in the Temple of Dendur, the grand, austere antiquity of age-old Egypt beneath Roman rule, commissioned afterwards Caesar Augustus ousted the absolute Cleopatra, and ensconced back the Sixties in the Metropolitan Architecture of Art, a allowance to the U.S. from Egypt. Back it comes to his afoot appearance locations, Lagerfeld about draws abundantly from their sartorial traditions. Pilfering elements from lederhosen to cowboy boots, he Chanel-ifies them with according genitalia account and audacity. At a time back abhorrence of avengement over cultural allotment has siphoned actual from abounding a designer’s afflatus well, Lagerfeld remains fearless. If article inspires him, he goes for it, actuality adulatory the adroit ability of Egyptian iconography in a abundance of admirable clothes.
As he imagines it, anyway. For all Lagerfeld’s aerodrome wanderlust, in accuracy he has one antecedent of inspiration, his own noggin. “This was not attractive at books and accomplishing it,” he offered. “It was the mood, the feeling, what I bethink and things like that.
“There’s a aeon to it,” he said of the attraction of age-old Egyptian imagery, acquainted that the abstraction for the accumulating crystallized afore the breadth was secured. “I consistently was absorbed in the old Egypt, from 3,000 years afore Jesus Christ. And again I said it would be abundant to appearance it in the Met, but I never anticipation it was possible. And again it was possible.”
But then, if “impossible” exists aural the apple of Chanel, we’ve yet to see it. Here, the abode appointed the Met for the appearance (which apprenticed closing accessible admission to the Temple of Dendur for abounding canicule prior) and a adjacent amplitude of Central Esplanade for the party. At the museum, Lagerfeld removed the commonsensical associates desks and installed huge urns of flowers, but contrarily larboard the Admirable Hall and anointed Temple breadth as is, save for the accession of appearance basement in the latter. Guests included a arrant celebrity agenda — Julianne Moore, Margot Robbie, Penélope Cruz, Lily-Rose Depp and Sofia Coppola. One celebrity wasn’t seated: Pharrell Williams absolved the show, a eyes all in gold, continued sweater aloft covering pants.
The gold wasn’t aloof for Pharrell. Rather, it accepted an overarching affair and a absolute point of circle amid Lagerfeld’s two locations, the Temple and the burghal in which it now resides. Age-old Egyptians admired the adored metal literally; finance-driven NYC does so figuratively. Never apperception that Lagerfeld’s appearance happened on an black day for Wall Street; you’d never apperceive it from the aerodrome or from the accidental of dressed-to-the-Chanel-nines audience who angry out. Surely they admired the gold that broadcast from alpha to finish, best generally alluringly rendered. Lagerfeld advantaged a long, angular silhouette, architecture abounding looks on an able basement — a floor-length white, delicate dress. He opened with apparel — surprise! — in amaranthine options. They came short, long, ample and fabulously oversized, their tweeds rendered in assorted shades of brownish gold, or belted in aureate leather.
Lagerfeld drew on the attention of Egyptian art for clothes cut with clean, additional lines, with nary a trace of abounding flou, alike at night. There were affluence of demonstrative, rounded wesekh collars, high-intensity arrangement — those Barrie knits, amazing! — and embellishment. It came lavish, in busy mosaics (down to the heels on the gold boots); intricate embroideries, some with a cast of Art Deco, and a alternate scarab motif, and playful, in a angry logo book that accumulated elements of again and now. “Hiero-graffiti,” quipped Lagerfeld aural lath Amanda Harlech during the preview.
If that analysis hinted against street, so, too, did a few denim looks and a covering biker jacket, the above busy with tonal denim appliques that looked like non-specific age-old symbols and the latter, formed to imitate croc, Exhibit A of the brand’s new no-more-exotics policy. All together, the accident was animating and the clothes, (give or booty the casual too-flashy-sweater-and-ombréd-leather-jeans combo), as chichi as it gets.
Still, age-old admiration has its limits, and so does fancy. Afterwards the show, guests strolled or were bused a bald 10 blocks south for the postshow affair in the park. Well, in a acrimonious covering Chanel pitched in the park, this actuality November, and the temperature, chilly. Once there, the revelers acclimatized into booths to barbecue on book from that best avant-garde and proletarian of Gotham conveniences — aliment trucks.
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