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Saturday, 4:50 a.m.
If you’re a Barcelona fan, you acquire to get up at an blasphemous hour to biking beyond Spain for the Copa del Rey final adjoin Sevilla in Madrid.
I’ve absorbed up with several Barca “penyes” (which is Catalan for supporters’ clubs) to accomplish the eight-hour adventure by drillmaster for the bout at Atletico Madrid’s stadium, the Wanda Metropolitano. We accommodated in Vilafranca del Penedes, a mid-sized boondocks in wine country an hour’s alternation ride southwards from the burghal of Barcelona.
It’s one of the abhorrent things about travelling to matches in Spain—it’s a big country, added than three times the admeasurement of England, so you acquire to accommodate ample distances to get to abroad games; there is a accelerated alternation arrangement abutting Spain’s cities, but admission prices are acutely high, the admirers acquaint me, which rules out travelling by train.
The Copa del Rey is appropriate in this regard—more than 20,000 admirers from both Barcelona in the north-east and Seville, which is in the south, will accomplish the backpack to Madrid in the centre of the country for the final. Normally, you ability alone get 200 Barca admirers travelling for, say, a La Liga bout adjoin Real Madrid at the Santiago Bernabeu stadium.
As we accumulate in the dark, the best apparent aspect of the travelling Barca admirers is the demographic spread—they ambit in age from boyish boys and girls to middle-aged men and a 69-year-old woman. This is a ancestors affair.
I’m alien to assorted admirers authoritative the journey, including Pere, which is Catalan for Peter. It is joked—half-seriously—that I can alarm him “Peter” but not “Pedro,” the Spanish equivalent. On the bus, bodies allocution to anniversary added in Catalan. Like all Catalans, they can about-face calmly into Spanish or Castellano.
The Catalan accent is added than a dialect. It’s a mix of French and Spanish, and its boundless use—including in the accessible academy system—is one of the hallmarks of the region’s drive for independence.
The Catalan accent is allotment of the bolt of FC Barcelona. It’s acclimated in the club’s communications. At Barca columnist conferences, or in the alloyed breadth afterwards games, alike a amateur like Luis Suarez, a Uruguayan who has alone been with the club for a few years, will acreage questions in Catalan and acknowledge in Spanish.
After animadversion a brace of hundred kilometres off the journey, the drillmaster pulls off the motorway to a account base area.
More than a dozen added Barca fan coaches acquire additionally pulled in. We alight for a breakfast of champions—crates of sparkling wine, accepted as “cava” in Catalonia, and boxes of “bocadillos” (baguettes with ham, cheese or “fuet,” a blazon of dry-cured Catalan sausage) are continued from the authority beneath the drillmaster and army on tables. We constrict in.
Back on the bus, the singing starts, led by a accomplice at the back. There are a few staples from the songbook, including “Un dia de partit” (A day of the match) and “El Cant del Barca.”
Everyone knows the lyrics to the club’s canticle “El Cant del Barca,” which is played over the speakers afore and afterwards amateur at the Camp Nou, Barcelona’s stadium. The aria concludes with a activation alarm to arms: “Tenim un nom el sap tothom (we’ve got a name that anybody knows): Barca, Barca, Baaaarca!”
Later in the night, Barcelona’s circuitous abaft one of the goals at the Wanda Metropolitano, which was organised by FC Barcelona’s business department, will use these words as its centrepiece: “Barca, Barca, Barca.”
It’s additionally a comedy on a acclaimed 1968 article appear by Manuel Vazquez Montalban, a brilliant left-wing bookish in Catalonia, advantaged “Barca, Barca, Barca,” which about accumbent for the aboriginal time—during the Franco dictatorship—the club with Catalonia’s abolitionist left.
As we canyon by one of the huge atramentous brownish beasts that are brindled forth abounding of Spain’s motorways, Jaime, a Barca fan, lets out a groaning boo. The aboriginal board roadside bull, which was advised by a clear artisan alleged Manolo Prieto, was erected on the Burgos-to-Madrid motorway in 1957, per The Independent.
The balderdash is a advancing attribute in Spanish football. Catalonia became the aboriginal acreage arena in Spain to ban bullfighting, afterward a bounded assembly vote in 2010 (which was chaotic in 2016, per Time magazine).
Barca admirers abrasion Catalan flags with a atramentous donkey superimposed on them draped over their amateur at matches. The Catalan donkey was co-opted decades ago as the region’s actionable symbol; the donkey’s characteristics are in apparent adverse to the bull, which is alike with cities in the south of Spain like Seville and Madrid—Real Madrid fans, for example, abrasion Spain flags with a atramentous balderdash superimposed on them at games.
There is a draw on the bus to adumbrate the account for the match. There are no dissenters: all 67 voting adumbrate a Barcelona victory.
I abatement into chat with Ivan Monterrubio, a 22-year-old
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