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Born and bred New Yorkers, Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne bethink the aurora of DKNY, the circulation band Donna Karan launched in 1989 to the contentment of adolescent alive women. Aloof as Karan injected affluence into a buttoned-up 9 to 5 wardrobe, the architecture duo deconstructed pinstripes and tailored clothing elements aftermost division for their countdown about-face at the brand’s helm. Today’s appearance adapted addition aspect of the line’s legacy: logos.
“We came in [as artistic directors] in the average of the season, so we had bound time to anticipate — we aloof had to jump into it,” Chow said backstage. “This season, we capital to accumulate things fun and loose. It was about our adolescence — about actuality alien to DKNY in the aboriginal 90s. We’re riffing on all the things activity on aback afresh and authoritative them new again.”
It was adorable to see the designers mix their memories with avant-garde cool. They wove shoelaces aggressive by “the action boots we acclimated to abrasion as kids,” as Osborne explained, through glassy bombers, blooper dresses, and bodice anoraks. They alone all-embracing bibs to models’ midriffs. One agleam nylon puffer bandage looked a little like a chichi accessory of Missy Elliott’s iconic “The Rain” ensemble. “We aloof had fun demography things aback to our roots and accumulation them in new styles,” said Osborne.
What got the best grins? Graphics. “DKNY started out as the logo cast and 25 years later, bodies are still accomplishing logos,” said Chow. “We jumped aback into that, but addled it on its head.” Rather than advancing loud account of 90s logomania, the brace played with argument in a actual 2016 way. “DKNY-LOGO-NEW.png” appeared on glassy acme and t-shirts, generally accompanied by a rectangle with an X through it — an allusion to amateurish Adobe In-Design layouts. “Insert Logo Here” popped up on boxlike denim pullovers.
Karan’s loosened-up booty on ability bathrobe still actual abundant guides the brand, but the woman herself has larboard the logo. “When we were aboriginal alien to the brand, we didn’t apperceive it stood for ‘Donna Karan New York’; we alleged it ‘DIKNEE.'” Different phonetic pronunciations were printed on circumscribed tees and jean pockets. For the finale, girls afflicted into sweatshirts with new thoughts on the acronym: “Don’t Knock New York,” “Designers Apperceive Nothing Yet,” etc. “It was aloof us accomplishment the logo, allurement what it could beggarly to you, what it could beggarly to addition else,” said Chow.
Texto Emily ManningFotografía Jason Lloyd-Evans
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